Showing posts with label Electronics Channel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Electronics Channel. Show all posts

Thursday, June 4, 2020

Samsung Plasma TV Rescue - PART 1 to 4

I found an abandoned Samsung Plasma TV PS-42S5H on the roadside, and decided to see if I could rescue it. 

The TV was in a completely unknown state, along with its remote control, so I had to do a complete troubleshooting cycle on the TV and its remote.  

Watch as I systematically move through the stages of troubleshooting towards an (ultimately) successful resolution.

Part 1



Part 2




Part 3




Part 4



Saturday, May 16, 2020

LG 4K TV - Power & Wall Mount Installation (PART 1 to 6)

This video series documents how I installed my newly repaired 49" 4K TV (LG49UH6500) on a wall where there was no power available.  I did so by branching into the dedicated air-conditioning circuit, installing a plug where there was formerly a switch, and putting a plug on what was formerly a hard-wired connection.  In the end, I overcame all of the many challenges, large and small, that presented themselves and was able to install the TV and enjoy everything it offers.


Part 1





Part 2




Part 3



Part 4




Part 5




Part 6



Sunday, April 12, 2020

Bamboo House - Induction Cooktop UPGRADE (Part 1 to 8)

One of the things that Mrs. Maker demands is a kitchen that affords her with the appropriate stage upon which to develop her culinary delights. 

One of the major drawbacks of Bamboo House was its kitchen, which I have worked on steadily over the past few months, adding features and capabilities as I go. 

This video series documents how I upgraded the induction cooktop from a half sized, 2-ring model (that was broken) to a full sized, 3-ring model.

Part 1



Part 2


Part 3




Part 4





Part 5

Part 6


Part 7


Part 8

Thursday, April 2, 2020

Quick Fix: 4K LG TV w/ Flickering Screen Problem

A bit bored and looking for a challenge, I decided to buy a "broken" LG 49UH6500 4K TV to see if I could fix it.  

I already have a bunch of TV's, of course...but all of them are stuck in a place that I cannot currently access due to the lockdown in Hong Kong and the fact that my work is closed from public access.  Also, I don't have a 4K TV and I was curious to see if the image quality was any different than the many 2K TVs already in my possession (1920 x 1080 is 2K).

A bit of searching the local 2nd hand websites uncovered a likely candidate - a 3-year old LG 49-inch television that went bad about a month after the warranty period had expired (bad luck, that).  The TV displayed a very unique and peculiar behaviour, with the screen stable for three seconds, then unstable for three seconds, then stable again (and so on).  

The owner wanted about USD50.00 for it, so I took the plunge and bought it, reasoning that I could at least squeeze a disassembly video out of it, if not a repair one.  

I also assumed that the LG would be configured like most modern LCD TVs, with three boards:  (a) A power board; (B) A motherboard; and (C) A logic (or controller board).  Well, you know what assume can make of someone.   It certainly happened to me.  You can only imagine my dismay when I found out that LG has integrated their controller board with the physical panel, making the replacement (or repair) of that part a very complicated and expensive affair.

Luckily, I came across a video from (Indonesia?) where a technician had figured out a way to hack the LG 4K TV "shared bus" design.  He had determined that certain traces in the machine had been duplicated across connectors, and found out that blocking (or "masking") off one of the duplications resulted in a stable picture.

Inspired by that video, I replicated the method he explained (in Bahasa) and have produced my own video of how to repair the LG 4K Flickering Picture problem, in English, with great success!


Friday, March 27, 2020

WINO the UNCOOL Wine Cooler (Part 1 to 6)

Some people leaving Hong Kong asked if anyone was interested in "rescuing" a broken wine cooler - how could I resist? WINO is an 18-bottle capacity Vinvautz wine cooler manufactured (of course) in China to the most widely applicable specifications possible. It's actually not a "Vinvautz". The unit is apparently a white label wine cooler that carries a number of badges (given they all share the same controller board). This includes Emerson, Midea and some other mid-tier brands that tend to purchase appliances that have reached commodity status.


Part 1

Part 2


Part 3

Part 4



Part 5



Part 6







Monday, March 23, 2020

Fixing WINO - The UNCOOL Wine Cooler!




The Story Of The Wine Cooler That Didn't Cool


Failing capacitors are often at the heart of power supply failure, so that should be the first components to look at when a device stops working properly.  In my case, the failing device was WINO - a Vinvautz 18 Bottle Wine Cooler.  It apparently stopped working one day, and the original owners just didn't have the time or opportunity to go about fixing it.


When I picked WINO up, it was already disassembled.  The power/logic board had already been removed.




The replacement filtering capacitors weren't expensive at RMB1.50 each, so I got ones that were rated for the same heat environment (CD288H  @ 105C) and a higher voltage (400v).  In total, five replacement capacitors cost about USD1.00.




The capacitor replacement, while probably a good idea, didn't solve the problem, so I needed to go downstream from there.


Looking at the board


This particular one looked like it had been serviced somehow:











The next component to take a look at is the STPS2045CTC, which is a pair of Shottky diodes in a TO-220 style transistor package


Dual center tap Schottky rectifier suited for SwitchMode Power Supply and high frequency to DC converters. Packaged either in TO-220AB, I²PAK, or D2PAK, this device is especially intended for use in low voltage, high frequency inverters, free wheeling and polarity protection applications.

Looking on the other side of the board, I discovered that it was a Schottky diode pair (STPS2045CTCin a TO-200 transistor package




Converting from AC to DC is simple when using a Schottky diode STPS2045CT rectifier from STMicroelectronics. Its peak non-repetitive surge current is 180 A, while its maximum continuous forward current is 20 A. It is made in a dual common cathode configuration. This rectifier has an operating temperature range of -65 °C to 175 °C.


Here's what a common cathode configuration looks like, electronically speaking:





UPDATE:


After replacing the STPS2045CTC with a replacement unit, the problem persisted.  If the machine has been turned off for a long time, you get a buzzing sound and the LED lights flicker.  Turn the machine off and then back on again, and you get nothing - dead machine - unless you wait a while.

Strangely, the machine boots when the high-current connector to the cooling system is unplugged, indicating a problem of some kind with that system along - by that I mean that the interface boots and the fans activate.  



Even stranger than that, if you turn the machine on with the pelletier circuit disconnected, then connect it after the machine is up and running, the machine works fine!

- Replace Power/Logic Board = RMB150 / USD20.00


- Introduce 12v Timer Delay Board = RMB16 / USD2.00

Which is cheaper and more fun?  Why the 12v Delay Timer Board of course!


ENTER The 12v Delay Timer Board


Another way to get WINO working is to simply work around its power supply problem with a timer delay board that defers the activation of the pelletier cooling circuit until all of the other systems are in place.

(similar to stereo delay timers)

Here's the board I decided to use:



Here's how you wire it in:




REFERENCES

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBhVS7GhCOM




Sunday, January 19, 2020

Mystery Beach TREASURE!!! What is this THING???





Beachcombing For Fun & Profit


You never know what the sea will bring.  


The other day, while walking the dogs on the beach, Mrs. Maker and I came across a couple of interesting bottles and an orange-colored mystery device.  It looked to me like some kind of specialized flashlight, but that was only because of its general shape.

The device was completely waterlogged, with what I supposed was the lens having this hideous-looking black water sloshing around in it.  This looked WRONG to me, because the device seemed obviously intended for some kind of oceanic situation or task.  Water penetration is usually that last thing you want when it come to anything ocean-going.

So, it seemed to me that the challenge(s) with respect to this device were twofold:

1) Get it working


2) Figure out what it was originally intended for


All of the parts seemed to be there.  It just appeared to me that the device hadn't been closed properly, almost like it had been put on a surface somewhere, and then it had rolled off into the ocean, unnoticed.


After its time in the ocean, the device was really dirty, so I figured it would be the perfect subject for a rescue & refurb video!

The lens area was especially dirty and hideous-looking:




Here's what I had to deal with:


1) Every metal part inside the device appeared to be rusty.


2) The battery (a big, old-fashioned, 1.5v "D" type) was totally shot.


3) All of the plastic parts were encrusted with sand and various types of sea life.


After an afternoon of scrubbing and TLC, the device was working again...and it turned out to look pretty nice!




Here's a video of the transformation....enjoy!




Help a Maker Out?


Did you see anything in this video you want for yourself?  If the answer is yes, consider using one of the link(s) below to buy it directly from amazon.com.  When you do, I get a small commission that keeps me going!



Bill of Materials


GLOVEWORKS HD Industrial Black Nitrile Gloves - 6 mil, Latex Free, Powder Free, Diamond Texture, Disposable, Large, GWBN46100-BX, Box of 100

https://amzn.to/35fifrv

Armor All 10160 Protectant, Original 1 pt (16 fl oz) 473 ml
https://amzn.to/2RGtHsx

Trident Silicone Grease Jar
https://amzn.to/38GjiDg

Disposable Chopsticks, pack of 40 pair

https://amzn.to/3979cLK

Mazbot 6" Cushion Comfort Foam Grip Beading Awl

https://amzn.to/2ZjDwOL

15 pieces Scratch Brush (Stainless Steel + Brass+Nylon), AFUNTA Curved Handle Masonry Wire brush Set Bristle for Cleaning Welding Slag and Rust,5 pcs Per Type

https://amzn.to/2rvQFYK

6 Pack Stainless Steel Sponges, Scrubbing Scouring Pad, Steel Wool Scrubber for Kitchens, Bathroom and More

Dawn Professional Pot and Pan Detergent Regular Scent 1 Gallon

https://amzn.to/2R61fzG




Tuesday, December 31, 2019

**WOW** I Used Simple Household Products to Refurbish Some Speakers!

JBL Control-1 Speakers



**WOW** I Used Simple Household Products to Refurbish Some Speakers!


A neighbor was kind enough to loan me a pair of JBL Control-1 speakers a little while ago, to help me troubleshoot a little audio quality problem I was having.  The speakers worked just fine, but they were a little dusty when I got them:



So when I was finished with them, and didn't need them any more, and I thought it would be a nice gesture if I gave them back to him in better condition than I received them in!

So, I pulled out my trusty cleaning trinity:

1) Rubbing Alcohol

2) Classic Armor All

3) Castor Oil

And got to work!  

I am very happy to say the results I got were fantastic, and I couldn't be happier:


To see how I got these results...

Watch the video to see how I did it!

Video Bill Of Materials

Armor All 10160 Protectant, Original 1 pt (16 fl oz) 473 ml
https://amzn.to/2RGtHsx

Heritage Products Castor Oil
https://amzn.to/2rEhgmj

MG Chemicals 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner, 475 mL Trigger Spray Bottle
https://amzn.to/2SEnQ7C


Dell M4700 REBUILD #1 - My Laptop Is **DEAD** But Not For Long!

DELL PRECISION M4700



My **CRAZY** Dell Is DEAD - But Not For Long!





I bought CRAZY, a second-hand DELL PRECISION M4700, for CAD350 (USD267.51) in the early days of June 2018 out of the back of a car in the parking lot of an Ottawa Real Canadian Super Store...no kidding


I was responding to an ad with the following headline:


Dell Precision M4700 Mobile Workstation Laptop w/ Firepro m4000

I found it on Kijiji, Canada's version of Craigslist.  

Here's the general specifications of the machine:


  • Dell Precision M4700
  • CORE i7 CPU (i7-3520@2.9Ghz)
  • Firepro m4000
  • 8Mb RAM
  • 128Gb SSD

So, I got in touch with the seller and planned a buy:



The person selling the computer, "Bob Walter", was obviously using an assumed identity, because he looked about as much like a "Bob Walter" as I look like a "Xi Jin Ping".

Anyway, despite its somewhat turbid provenance, the DELL PRECISION M4700 seemed to work just fine when I checked it out.  The battery was OK.  It seemed to be in fine cosmetic shape.  It came with a 128Gb SSD.  At the time of the purchase, the machine booted correctly and brought up a Windows desktop quickly and smoothly.  There was no obvious damage.  So, I was pretty pleased with the buy.

But, very shortly thereafter, even before the summer was over, it started to develop a very strange video problem that looked like this:


Taking a look at the machine, I noticed that the machine appeared to have a heat problem, because the right side of the keyboard was becoming very hot to the touch.  Too hot.

There are two fans on the DELL Precision M4700.  Looking at the screen, the one on the left cools the CPU, the one on the right cools the GPU.  Servicing the fans is pretty easy, you just flip the machine over, release the battery, unscrew a couple of baseplate screws, remove the baseplate and there you are.  The fans are in plain view (but reversed, the GPU fan is now on the left instead of being on the right, because the machine is upside down).


In the end, it turned out that the machine had a serious GPU cooling issue.  The GPU airflow was being blocked by what looked like a large clump of fluff and cat hair caught in (and hidden by) the exit port heat dispersal fins.  So, I removed the blockage and blew out the machine with compressed air.   The machine booted smoothly as always, and there was no more flickering video.  I thought I had resolved the issue...but I was wrong.

As it turns out, the primary user of the machine was still experiencing flickering video issues, just much more rarely.  When interviewed about this after the system failure, they said "When the video turned off completely, I would just wait a little while and it would come back on - it happened so rarely, it just didn't bother me and I didn't think about it any more".  

Hmmmm - that's not really an acceptable MAN THE MAKER situation...

One day, the machine simply froze.  Not thinking much of the situation, the primary user performed a hard restart and....nothing.  The machine powered up and then then just sat there doing absolutely nothing.  No beeps!  No nothing!  Just a power indicator above the keyboard and nothing else.  

The other thing that happened when this machine crashed is it somehow managed to scramble the contents of its SSD to the point where the disk became unrecognizable by any other computer.  I had to buy an external USB enclosure to get it recognized and the data off the disk and onto a replacement computer.

So, with the machine much deeper in trouble, back into troubleshooting mode I went.

I did the following to try to isolate the source of the problem:

1) I removed all of the memory, to checlk if there was a memory error and to elicit some beeps from the computer.  No beeps.

2) I removed the CMOS battery, thinking that there might be some weird CMOS setting with respect to the HDD preventing the machine from booting, but got nothing.

Because I was a  bit short on time, I called a local laptop repair shop and asked them to take a look at the machine for me.  

I don't normally do this - but I was about to travel overseas and it was imperative to get this machine back online as soon as possible.  

I told the technician everything I could about the machine (including the story of the blocked GPU fan) and said that I suspected that it was the graphics card that was faulty.  The technician called me later on the same day and said that a replacement of the graphics card would cost about USD75.00, labor included.  I told him to go ahead and get one, put it in, and tell me whether or not that fixed the problem.

I returned from my travels about a week later, only to be told by the technician at the laptop repair shop that he had been unable to repair the machine.  Furthermore, he wasn't sure what was wrong with it.  He told me that after he had swapped in a new graphics card, the machine still refused to boot.  

At that point, I asked him to box the machine up so I could come and get it.  The technician was kind enough to box the machine up quite nicely, and I went and got it without any issues - only to realize that he had forgotten to give me the bottom plate of the laptop, which bears the DELL SERVICE CODE I needed to get the "as built" specifications of the machine.

Once again short on time, I put it away - but promised myself that I'd take another look at it when I had a little more free time.  
Well, that time is now!

When I got the machine back I noticed something about it right away.  The thermal compound that had been applied to help conduct heat from the GPU to its heat sink was now the consistency of hardened drywall plaster!




In fact, the area where the GPU came into direct contact with the heat sink had baked the interfacing thermal grease A DARK BROWN.




Clearly, no replacement card had ever been installed.

The technician had told me a fib.  Who knows why...

This left me in a bit of a pickle, because I didn't know where the fault truly lay:


Potential Fault Origins:


A)  Was it the GPU board? 

- Was it fried permanently from having not been cooled correctly for years?
- Was it just overheating the instant the  machine was powered up?


B)   Was it the CPU?

- If the GPU thermal paste was bad, surely the CPU paste was in the same state?
- Could the CPU be fried?

C)  Was it the motherboard?

- After all, the machine was 5 years old and suffering from thermal issues

Using Occam's Razor as my guide, I figured that the first component to mess with should be the GPU card, because the machine had a history of video problems, and those problems diminished (but did not disappear) when the cooling subsystem had been straightened out.

So, I figured that the simplest thing to do was to:


Re-assemble the computer 

- With the  same Graphics Card
- With fresh thermal paste
- With clear airflow

How To Remove Thermal Paste (Use Rubbing Alcohol!)


Removing thermal paste is easy if you use rubbing alcohol and a bunch of Q-tips.  Simply apply the rubbing alcohol generously to the Q-Tip (I dip the Q-Tip directly into the bottle) and then rub the hardened thermal paste in a circular motion until it starts to dissolve.  

After a few minutes of this, an AMD chip face emerged:



Here's some specifications:

Part #:            216-0834044
Device Type:    Video Card
Manufacturer:    AMD
Product Line:    FirePro M Series
Model:             M4000
Description:    FirePro M4000 Chelsea XT GL 1GB Laptop DDR5 Graphics Card
API Supported:    DirectX 11, OpenCL 1.2
Enclosure Type:    Internal
Graphic Processor: AMD FirePro M 4000
Memory Size:       1 GB
Memory Technology: GDDR5 SDRAM
Memory Interface:  128-bit
Core Clock:        600 MHz
Memory Clock:      4500 MHz
Resolution:        2560 x 1600

Good to know.

After a few minutes of gentle rubbing (and about 10 Q-Tips), everything was clean again:



And then I cleaned the matching face on the Dell M4700 heat sink too:



This style of heatsink is called a Heat Pipe, because it is designed to use fancy physics to transfer heat being generated at Point A to a cooling strategy located at Point B.  

Heat Pipes are designed to conduct heat from one place to another using a highly heat-conductive material (in this case, copper) that transports the heat to another place where  it can be dispersed - in this case, via airflow located some some inches away, instead of focusing the airflow directly on the source of the heat itself.  Why?  Mostly because laptops need to be thin, and a vertical cooling strategy (like in a desktop computer) would be too thick.  Laptops need to cool horizontally, not vertically.  That's what a Heat Pipe makes possible.

Anyways, the sorry state of the thermal compound on the GPU make me suspect that the exact same thing had happened to the CPU, so a complete disassembly was probably in the cards once this machine had been brought back to life.


My first task was to get my hands on some fresh thermal compound!


I bought some thermal compound and re-applied, but that didn't work.

I bought a blowtorch and tried to reflow the BGA under the GPU, but that didn't work


So, I went ahead and bought another video card, because the one I found cost less than USD10.00:


Put in commentary about pressing "D" and the power switch to fire off the LCD test to prove that the backlight is working.

Put in commentary about pressing "<Fn>" and the power switch to fire off the DIAGNOSTICS test to